Finally, we are in Kaza- the district headquarter of Spiti. We ended up spending two days here and explored the nearby villages. Kaza is the biggest town and commercial center in Spiti. It has the only fuel station in the entire Spiti valley, a cyber cafe, and erratic mobile network. After spending days in the remote, serene Himalayas it was like coming back to the chaotic city life.
We started early and went on the now familiar road. Spiti river, our delightful companion also joined and took us through the valley to the villages.
Along the way, there are interesting artworks curated by nature.
Our first stop was Dhankar village which was the erstwhile capital of Spiti. The main attraction here is the magnificent Dhankar Gompa perched high on top of a hill. At a staggering height of 3,894 meters, Dhankar gompa is awe inspiring. From a distance, the entire complex looks fragile and in fact, this is one of the 100 most endangered sites in the world.
Dhankar means fort on a cliff and this monastery is more than 1000 years old. I can’t imagine how they managed to build such a gravity_defying structure in that period. You have to leave the vehicle and walk up to the monastery.
That day it was closed for repairs. So we missed the trek and the dizzying views from the top. Why is it that most revered places of worship are at such heights and terrains?
After a long stretch of barren mountains, we came upon green patches and a cluster of houses.
The Spitian villages are sparsely populated.( The 2011 census says 33,224 is the total population). They all have a monastery, traditional mud houses, and farmlands. Agriculture, livestock, and tourism are their main source of income. Barley, potato, and peas are the main cash crops. Summer months are for farming and preparing food and fodder for the harsh winter. In winter everything comes to a standstill and people are confined to their homes. It is hard to imagine how they are coping with their limited resources. Apart from the motorable roads, there is hardly any signs of development.
Langza is another picturesque village. It is known for the fossils of marine animals and plants. We saw two young girls trying to sell the fossils they have collected. Though it is illegal, there are no stringent laws to regulate this. A huge statue of Buddha is seen overlooking the valley. Ideal spot for the obligatory group photo!
From Langza the road climbed higher and now we are in Komic Village.
Komic Monastery is relatively small. A few monks were in the prayer hall chanting.
The post office in Hikkim is claimed to be the highest post office in the world. Having read about it in travel journals, I was keen to go there. A steep trek through loose gravel takes you to a nondescript house. Nobody was seen outside. We took some photos and went in. The small dark room was teeming with tourists. Mr. Rinchen Cherring, the branch postmaster was at the center of the melee handing out postcards, stamps, envelopes and patiently answering queries. I also bought postcards and deposited them with reverence. One was addressed to myself and I received it after one month.What an exciting journey for a postcard!
On the way back from the successful Mission Postcard, I met a group of children. Their school was closed and they were out to play. It was refreshing to see them making do with what they have.They don’t have fancy toys or the latest gizmos. We bartered smiles. I like children who don’t live in a fantasy world with superheroes.
Kee Monastery was the last stop. Imposing structure and spectacular setting but I decided to skip it.
A school was seen nearby. After the morning dose of extreme solitude, the school seemed the perfect getaway. And I wasn’t disappointed. It was a riot of colors and laughter out there.
That night I dreamt of a boy zooming down the mountain on a motorbike with his red robes billowing around.