After two days in the idyllic villages, we are back on the road. Today we are going to cross Kunzum La and this was going to be the most challenging route of the entire trip.
Kunzum Pass is the high mountain pass which connects Lahaul with Spiti valley. It remains inaccessible for eight months due to heavy snow and opens only from mid- June to September. A favorite with the adventure seekers, reaching the pass is considered a high point in every sense.
Starting off early to avoid the rush hour, all of us were in fine form. The group had bonded well over the trip. Some were already making plans to come back here for the winter.
From Kaza, it is 75 km to Kunzum Pass. Spiti valley continued to charm us with its mesmerizing landscapes. At many places, there are no tarmacked roads. The drivers depend on one another to keep tabs on the latest road conditions. We had to brave our way through deep gorges, massive boulders, and raging streams. It was exciting as well as scary to wade through ice cold waters.
There was a dramatic change in the landscape near the Kunzum pass. Vast green pastures took over from the rugged barren mountains.
A flock of sheep was grazing under the watchful eyes of the shepherd.
A detour from the main road leads to the famed Kunzum Pass.
At the top, there is a small temple for the local deity Kunzum Mata. It is customary for travelers to stop here to pay obeisance to the Kunzum Mata. Beside the temple are stupas and hundreds of prayer flags making it look more like a Buddhist monastery. I did not want to take my shoes off to enter the temple. So I went on to do a parikrama (clockwise circumambulation) of the temple and bowed to the spectacular vistas.
The majestic Chandrabhaga mountain range overlooks the pass. There is something special and divine about the mountain passes that makes us want to linger. But our vigilant drivers are ready to move.
The road progressively deteriorated and now it was just a winding gravel path.
Further ahead was the camping site. After that bumpy ride, it was a relief to see the cozy tents and the picturesque surroundings. Chandratal is about 2 km from the camp and we got ready for the next adventure. Visiting Chandratal has been one of my fondest dreams and I couldn’t believe that I was finally going to be there.
The vehicles left us in the parking area and we started the hike. As expected it was very cold and windy. But nothing could dampen our excitement. The fairly easy trek takes you through rolling hills, meadows and couple of streams.
Though Chandratal has been a popular tourist destination we were fortunate to have the place to ourselves. I was getting slightly impatient as there was still no sight of the lake.
And then the first glimpse of the magical lake …..
The sliver of blue was electrifying. I quickened my pace and completed the last part of the hike in a daze.
The water shows the most amazing colors which keep changing. The mountain ranges have a beautiful shade of pink which I have never seen elsewhere. The lake and the mountains captivate you and no pictures can capture its beauty.
Chandratal literally means Moon Lake. The name comes from its crescent shape. The high altitude (4300 meters) lake is a protected wetland and remains frozen in winter. The local people consider it sacred. The ravishing lake has its share of folktales and lore which add to its allure. I am not surprised! Beautiful maidens, fairies, and star- crossed lovers are always attracted to lakes.
I walked around the lake and took in more of the stunning views around. The water was freezing cold yet energizing. The silence and serenity calm the mind. I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else on earth.
There is a trail along the lake and you can do a parikrama. Though we wanted to, decreasing light and howling cold winds discouraged us. As I was walking back I couldn’t help but wonder how long this place will retain its sanctity. I pray …….
Unfortunately, the best of times have to come to an end. Today is our last day in Spiti and tomorrow we are going back to Chandigarh. It has been an incredible journey. Apart from the stunning visual diversity what made it special was my fellow travelers and the people of Spiti. I am lucky to have had such wonderful folks to share the adventures. It is hard to say goodbye, even harder to leave this remote haven.
Enchanting Spiti- God’s own!
Sidran, this is a spectacular end to your Spiti journey. Chandratal is truly inspirational. The sweeping of the surrounding range into the lake is like a music one cannot hear.
I am in awe of your explorer’s enthusiasm. Yet, tourism is another beast. I also hope tourism does not ruin the region, although…. if there was tourism, would the people get the money? Or would it mostly go to the usual at the top?
Well, will there be any “Return from Spiti” tales?
Whatever, I look forward to your next post.. Did I ever tell you I went to Machu Piccu in the 1970’s? It was not inundated by tourists. Now, it is. I have seen new pics with all of the tourists. It is a very, very different reality, and I have pics to prove it!
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Your words are music to my ears.
Though the tourism boom has improved the local economy, many of the government- sponsored development projects are yet to reach the remote villages. Then there are some mega hydropower projects which the locals blame for rising landslides. Finding the right balance between development and preservation of the traditions and culture is challenging. I hope they do.
Yes, you did mention your Machu Picchu visit. When are you going to write about it?
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I’ve got so many projects on the go! First, which will be soon, I will scan the photos I have and see how they come out! 😀
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WOW! This is great voyage and photographs dear Sidran, fascinated me, you almost took me there too, Thank you, Love, nia
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Yes, it was one of the most challenging as well as rewarding experiences. Thank you, Nia.
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Dear Sidran, when I wish to be in Himalayas, I visit your blog 🙂 Have an amazing photographs. If you let me, I want to share your first photograph on my blog page (header image) wish your name/blog link too.. Can I post?
Thank you, Love, nia
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How absolutely gorgeous! And that temple does look so like a Buddhist temple – do you think it might once have been?
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It is difficult to say. The gompas, as well as the small temple, look fairly new. Thank you.
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Everything is so pristine and beautiful! That lake is just magical. Enjoy your adventure and thank you for sharing.
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Couldn’t agree more. Thank you.
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Beautiful 🙂
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Gorgeous Sidran…just gorgeous. Am loving the photo where you just see the lake – it must have been amazing.
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It was surreal. I hope one day I can see it in the moonlight. Thanks, Sue.
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Waiting for your next post on Spiti, we couldn’t cover Kunzum as it was closed and even Chandratal as we were traveling with our 11months old little boy.
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Travelling with an infant is challenging! I must say we were incredibly lucky to have experienced Chandratal.
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Firstly Sidran: I love your ‘tongue in cheek’ title… 🙂
The images are wonderful; your journey amazing. It was quite surreal for me to come to the Moon Lake in pictures. I can only imagine how wondrous this must have been for you.
Your journey takes me back to a time I spent in India. I didn’t want to leave; yet this time holds a place in my heart that brings a calm and a deep reverence when I think about it. Such journeys live eternally.
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Thank you, Carolyn, your lovely comments made my day!
Hope you would share your Indian sojourn someday.
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Wat een fantastisch avontuur.Eentje dat je nooit zal vergeten
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It was an adventurous journey and experience, with beautiful landscapes and unforced mighty mountain ranges! Spoken of serenity and breathtaking. And yet overwhelming by its greatness, but you have defied harsh conditions and were finally rewarded with the grace of this unsurpassed natural beauty! Thank you for sharing!
Best regards, Heidi
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We were incredibly lucky! Wish I can go back someday. Thank you very much, Heidi.
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I hope so for you too, Sidran! 🙂
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the topic of post remind me novel “fifty shades of gray” .actully how did you leave this heaven ?
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Leaving Spiti was the most difficult part of my trip. Hope to go back someday.
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It has become abundantly clear from your Spiti Tales how much you’ve fallen in love with this place. “There is something special and divine about the mountain passes that makes us want to linger.” I so agree, and I think also something fearsome.
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You heard me loud and clear. Thank you very much.
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This is a really breathtaking hiking destination, Sidran! It’s the first time I am hearing about Spiti valley and it goes on my bucket list. When’s the best time of the year to undertake hiking there?
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The best time would be from mid- July to October. The winter is quite harsh though no less enticing.
Thanks for stopping by.
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What a spectacular landscape around Kunzum Pass and the Spiti Valley. Love your images.
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Thank you, Otto. Spiti Valley was like a dream I didn’t want to wake up from. It is an amazing place.
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Sidran, I am thrilled every time by your wonderful and exciting articles and documentaries. You have a great talent as a travel writer. With your spectacular, authentic photos and your sensitive words you show me a wonderful, strange world. I will probably never visit these areas, but your posts will bring them closer to me. I love this mysterious and wonderful blue lake! It looks like a dream…..
Thank you, Sidran.
Rosie from Germany
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It was truly a magical experience, thank you very much, Rosie.
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